Letting Go 08: Poland part 2

Again with the stupidly early arrival, this time in Krakow (I believe the w is pronounced as a v) where I would hold up for a few days. I stumbled around in the early morning trying to find my hostel (the local cousin of the Nathans Villa I stayed in while in Warsaw) and failed, despite it eventually being right under my nose. Damn. But I like Nathans because they have free wireless internet and they do your laundry for free. Fantastic stuff.

I did my usual routine of small talk with the receptionist, then sleeping for a few hours to recover from the train damage. I took a walk after that. I tell you something, I went back to Poland with a specific aim, to Krakow in particular because of something nearby I wanted to see, but I had little to no idea that it was such a nice place. Historical capital of Poland, home of Wawel Hill (again, get those vs out) where Polands kings are crowned. Another miraculously undamaged by war city. Its quite the tourist drawcard and I knew almost nothing of it I realised as I walked around. A perfectly preserved (but not too tarted up) old town, full of churches and a huge town hall, requisite tourist trappings and souvenir sellers. The atmosphere is laid back and sunny and the historical, nougat like centre is ringed by the chocolate coating of the Planty, a circular park that they put in when the took the city walls down a few hundred years ago. The Planty is what sold it for me, it takes two hours to walk around the whole thing and it is green, cool and shady. The old town is always in sight, no-one is hurrying anywhere. City planning or just opportunism, I dont care whoever designed it all, I salute you, over and over.

I took a walk out of the city, trying to find some things that were in the wrong direction, then walked back to the hostel around the back of Wawel hill. Very nice city, easily the nicest in Poland.

I had planned, the whole time, to visit Osweicem better know by the name the Germans gave it, Auschwitz and make the last stop on my WWII atrocities tour section. Id been to Hiroshima a year ago with my sister and on this trip Id made stops in Nagasaki and Nanjing, which round out the top four (but lets not get bogged down debating this list, so to oversimplify: lots of shit happened and ranking it would be nothing short of insensitive and retarded) and I am not too sure what else to put in there. Maybe Dresden? Southern Okinawa deserves to be there and not just because I went there; but it all pales next to what I saw today. Since stumbling upon war history as a teenager, the realities and text of the war have been largely two separate things. Its only in the last couple of years that they have become more concrete. So its almost fitting that the first chapter to shock me and become and obsession was the last one I made it to.

But step back, to the moment I dragged myself out of bed the next day. The hostel here does laundry for free, so Id thrown all my intolerably dirty socks and not so unbearable t-shirts in to be cleaned. This left me shirtless and sockless as I got out of bed, so I threw on my Socceroos shirt and went barefoot downstairs.

There were cops everywhere. I grinned stupidly in my just-woke-up daze. You have to walk out onto the street and around to the front door to get in, so I went out and noticed the door had been all fucked up by something. Inside reception there were some very grey faces and a couple of grim ones. I asked the receptionist why all the cops were there. She said she didnt know, so I left it. As I made tea I heard the people sitting at the tables talking. Someone from their dorm had been killed in the night. Exactly who and what and why, I havent put together. Not that its my business. Past the fact that someone had been murdered in my hostel. I could barely imagine what the others who had been asleep in there had gone through. I still dont know if it happened in the room, or outside, or if it was another guest. But it happened.

As I went back to my room to change and get ready to go, I saw the body lying on the grass. Just lying there. Inert, lifeless, twisted unnaturally. Visibly damaged. The police looking grim and just angry enough that I hurried on. The scene will be a snapshot in my head till the day I die. They could have covered it, or shut the door. It would have been visible from the windows all on the side of the building, if I had looked out. I didnt.

Whatever the reason or cause, someone had been killed right there and I had, as it were, stepped on it. Stepped in it. Shit, no wonder the receptionist didnt say anything.

I dont think of stuff like, it might have been me. I am infinite and indestructible, but Im also uninsured and while I think my lack of spark with the ladies gives me cosmic balance protection in other places (like defence from violent crime) you cant think too long or hard because then everything seems dark, scary and unpalatable. Life is too short and end when it may, it wasnt last night.

So with that image in my head I set out, down to the bus station for the hour and a half ride. I slept part of the way, listened to my earphones the rest. The town itself is entirely unremarkable. A train station, shops, houses this could be anywhere in eastern Europe. Except for all the day trippers, very few of whom look terribly happy. Everyone knows what it is, what happened there. The horror of the place is real and infamous. They dont advertise the museum nor do they charge money to see it.

I waited for the tour to start. It begins at Auschwitz I, the smaller part. You dont need to take a tour but I wanted as much detail as I could get. There are posters, books for sale. Nothing over the top, you understand. Just information. There was a movie, all the famous footage taken by the Red Army as they came across the camp and liberated the 8000 survivors that had been left behind by the Nazis as they took the rest of the prisoners on the final march. It is entirely shocking, narrated in a 1950s feel, all dissent, high moral ground and rhetorical questions. Shocking, totally.

Then onto the camp. Under those gates, into the barracks. These ones are brick and the streets are lined with Poplar trees. Make no mistake, the feel of evil is in the air. People are restrained, almost no-one talks except for the guide. The sky was clear and blue, almost mockingly so, all the colours vibrant in the warm day. The photos we all know are black and white, grey and grainy, full of emaciated people. The camp was liberated in January, the heart of winter, so this is no surprise. September is a wonderful time of year in Poland. The tour shows all the famous corners, the utter heartlessness of the exercise. The point was to kill, murder it was a factory, a factory of death. Harsh and unknowable realties were played out in those buildings. You can hear the tales and see the piles of shoes, glasses, clothes and even the hair that was cut off the dead but in no realm of our safe, padded existence can we ever really, truly know that it would have been like. And thanks to whatever power might be out there that we dont have to find out.

I wont go into detail about everything there. You really should go for yourself. Everyone should. If we forget these things, we are doomed to repeat them.

After Auschwitz, there is a bus that runs you over to Auschwitz II Birkenau. This is where most of the killing was done, efficiently and cruelly. The sheer size of the place is totally overwhelming. As far as you can see. In every direction. Stand in the middle, where the trains arrived, and look around and the camp is all you can see. The guide told us all about the living conditions and sanitation. I would describe it as living hell but I dont know what thats like. It sounds like something I wouldnt ever want to find out about.

The monument at the end of it all is simple and dignified. The platforms are made up of one and a half million blocks, one for every person murdered there. After that I walked around where the crematoriums were. I was basically alone. Just me, the trees and the ruins of the buildings. One was blown up in an armed uprising, the rest by the retreating Nazis. The ruins are still shocking. I get the feeling that very few visitors make it all the way out there. I was alone by the time I made it to the corner of the camp. It was completely silent. No insects, no birds. Just the sound of a few acorns dropping from the trees. Otherwise completely still, but in no way tranquil. There is a restless feeling and a sense of evil. This is not a place I would ever like to go at night. Or, for that matter, ever again. The sky was cloudless and the sun hours from setting, but it was dark. Dark in my mind, dark in the memory of the lost souls. Senselessly wasted and never coming home.

I walked the long way back to the bus. A flock of small birds were flying overhead. As if they were coming back. Maybe hope might bloom again. All the years on and we are not forgetting in a hurry. This is all we can do now, for the slain of Osweicem.

I went back to Krakow with too much to think about. That night I went drinking with a bunch of American uni students in town on a study tour that seemed to be mostly focussed on how the local laws differ to the ones at home, thus making them of legal drinking age. My heart was not in it, not on the revelry or the clubs we went to, because the days events were already too heavy. Fun is fun, but there are shadows over everything. Shadows ruled that day.

But as night ends, so do shadows fade from mind and the next day looked better. I saw the rest of the notable sights and went to Kosciusko Mound with a pair of English guys. They turned out to be brothers and the view from the mound turned out to be very cool. An artificial hillock sculpted out of dirt from Polish battlefields and some imported from American War of Independence battlefields, it is mysteriously named after the tallest mountain in Australia. Baffled, my friends and I made the long walk home. On the way I stopped at a bookshop and bought a Murakami Haruki novel, a wonderful decision on my part.

That night was marked with full-hearted drinking of cheap local beer. Many, many pints of it, and things threatened to go on to dawn in the hostel bar, but I knew I had to make an exit the next day, so I pulled up stumps about three in the morning.

Krakow is known for the lively nightlife to be found about the place, but I saw little of it. There are quite a few historical places I didnt make it to (Oscar Schindler, of the List movie fame, did his noble deeds in Krakow, the factory is there but I missed seeing it) and I admit I skipped going to the castle. I went because Auschwitz was a long-term goal of mine and that was all I really needed to see.

The next day I walked to the bus station and fought through a rally to fight the crowd of people trying to get on busses. Some rally had cut off the bus station for an hour or so everything leaving was delayed and I had to wait around until about two oclock before I could get a bus to Zakopane. There I would get a connection to Poprad in Slovakia but I ended up arriving about ten minutes too late, so I was forced to stay a night there.

Good thing really, because it is a really nice town. Nestled right in the south, it is in prime real-estate for hiking and skiing so is the winter sports capital. The town is themed accordingly, the main street looking a little too Swiss for my taste, but this is even more tasteful and neat than Krakow, you might not even think this was Poland. It is a street apart from the rest of the country, quite thankfully so. Tourist crap and souvenirs aside, the atmosphere is almost festive. I walked the streets, stood and stared at the High Tatra mountains that loom over half the skyline, ate some food. It was a lucky accident indeed the hostel in town is agreeable and cheap, I almost considered staying another day. But I had outdoorsy activities in my near future as it was, so I woke early and was headed belatedly for Poprad first thing in the morning.


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