Letting Go 05: Poland

Early, rainy, grey, cold, concrete, confusing. First impressions might stick but they are seldom so accurate. They need to put that on the postcards. Welcome to Warsaw. Theres not much colour. And it will probably rain.

So it did. It had begun raining back in Kaunas and it had followed me. Just a light mist when I got on the bus. The border crossing in the middle of the night was as devoid of fun as always. Arrival in Warsaw was in darkness, so I sat blearily in the bus station trying to triangulate where the fuck I was. Tired doesnt begin to describe it, this sensation, it went to my core, my very heart lack of sleep is one thing, my symptoms were worse this time. I can get by tired but I wanted something else and she wouldnt be there, not any time soon, if ever again.

So once daylight spread over the city I decided to walk out and try and make sense of where I was. I had arrived for some reason at Warsaw Central, rather than the bus station across town. Negotiating the exit from the building was not easy. For the main transport hub of the city, nay the country, things were complicated. The underground passages resembled a maze and there were no clear pedestrian crossings to be seen. There was no traffic about so I went unscathed. The first thing that stands out of the grey sky and concrete mess of the streets is the Palace of Science and Culture, a God-awful Stalinist nightmare of a building that lords over the city like a giant middle finger. It is imposing, unsightly, immense and ugly as sin. It was love at first sight.

There are very few places in Warsaw that dont feature a view of the thing, so it was a good thing I liked it so. Better get used to it, the postcards will say. I had directions to my bedding and walked there. It took about 15 minutes. The staff were really nice, especially given the early hour, and let me check in straight away. So I did and fell asleep, dreaming the dreams of the truly tired.

I woke about midday. Breakfast was still going on, so I ate and went out into the cold and wind to change money and get a better look. I had no warm clothes, so I thought about buying something to combat the cold. I would have nothing to do except hang out at the hostel if this kind of weather persisted. The day was so miserable I didnt stay out long. Times like that, when your heart matches the weather, they are truly down times. I retreated to rest a little and take advantage of the free wireless internet and laundry. I ventured out only for food, because it was simply too cold to go out without more clothes on. I did quite a bit of writing there and then, so let no-one say I wasted my time.

The next day was better. The sun even stuck its head out, so I went to the stadium market and bought a jacket. More of a hoodie. But these modern words and clothes confuse me. It is a damn ugly thing I got me, but it was the best of a bad bunch, let me tell you. The biggest market in Europe and they got all the bad, knock-off, low quality shit you might expect. It was so big I couldnt barely manage to find my way out again. Thats a quality market.

Warsaw has a fully-reconstructed old town, the original having been blasted to shit by Nazis and Soviets. The Poles rebuild it brick for brick. You can only keep some things down so long. The re-creation is authentic, apart from the city wall that look too new and clean, you might not even realise that its not genuine. Getting there is a small challenge too, because its simply tiny compared to the old towns of the cities to the north. Blink and you might miss it and be stranded a tram stop too far. I took far too long, messing around on trams, finding it and once there was a little under whelmed. In the list of great cities of Europe, you wont find Warsaw cracking the top ten for a good reason. Poland, while following a similar history to Baltia, has clearly not recovered from the Soviet era with quite the same verve. The economic recovery has lagged behind many of its neighbours and it shows in Warsaw. Still quite drab and grey, the city planning and infrastructure still needs work. But it is getting there public transport, for one, the main streets for another, are looking good. Its just the rest. Lacking in charm or spark, it still needs time. I am sure that this is all that is missing from the equation. So keep an eye on it and hopeful the people in charge do all the right things.

The small old town has a few nice features, a castle and whatnot, statues, gates, walls. Nice looking place. This was all the sightseeing I really managed, just walking around the city, because thats all there really is to do. And it was getting cold. Time to go back.

The next day I hammered out travel plans, got tickets, did all the usual running around. I was only there for two nights and it wasnt too little at all. I saved the great attraction for the last day and went with great spirits to the Palace. It is as ever imposing the closer you get to it and no less ugly. Directly from the Fuck You school of architecture, it was a present from Russia back in the day. The message is clear. We own you. Try saying no to this.

There was a vaguely informative exhibition on various corners of science. No real unifying theme, but given the buildings purpose I guess it was required. The whole point of the endeavour was to get to the top and take in that view. It is the finest view of the city, simply because the panorama is thankfully free of the building itself. The rest of the view isnt much to write home about either. But stretch on as far as you can see, it does, in every direction. This is a place where people live, many of them, where their lives take place and where they grow up. Like Poland itself, Warsaw has seen simply too much damage, fighting and oppression to bounce back just yet. The last few hundred years has seen Poland as a poor country, used and occupied by stronger neighbours and even with all the good will and positively it will just take time.

Just take time.

So it was that I left on the afternoon train to Gdansk.

I was going to stay with a local family, always a welcome experience. The train arrived after a few dull hours at eleven pm. I found my host, Krystyna, and we went to a local tavern near the dockside to meet some of her friends and family. It was a wonderfully quaint place, all nautical memorabilia and boats on the wall. I talked to the people who were very curious about my presence Gdansk is off the main Poland tourist route, out there on the Baltic coast, and I imagine they dont get to meet so many Australians in their daily lives. So I heard their stories and they heard mine. There was a dude from Kenya there, he married a local and ran a travel agency. He was surely out of his element, but Poland offered a better life and he had taken his chances. He could speak Polish, no mean feat, and was doing well for himself. The people you meet, indeed.

So after some food and drinks they took me home. The house was an apartment in a Soviet era housing block, something right out of the communist dream and so far off the tourist trail I cant begin to tell you. It was a small apartment, smaller than I expected to see in that part of the country. Gdansk is not a big city, but it is big enough to be considered a major point. I had assumed that quality of life to wit, apartment sizes might be bigger and better, but maybe not. Either way, it was a nice homely place, clearly the place of family and warmth. Shining out of the concrete edifice, out of the imposing history that put it there, you can try but youll never succeed in crushing the soul. Religion and communism were always at odds and in deeply Catholic Poland this was always a source of resentment and ultimately, as I saw, one of the tools that cracked the Iron Curtain.

We sat around the kitchen table, talked about things, about what I was planning to do and see, and we ate some food. Krystynas husband had dual citizenship with Canada and had travelled further than most Poles, and spoke better English. They knew and remembered all too well the grey years of communism and while they told me little, I heard enough to cement the image of a system that did not consider the people in it, one that had to keep them down in order to impose itself and thus justify itself. The story was the same everywhere I had been I knew I felt anger, but the times were past and everywhere I looked I saw people climbing out of the hole. There were lots of things still left there (in Poland more than other places) but the sun would again shine. Anger is no good now. We need to learn and remember what happened and why, so that we might prevent it ever coming to pass again. Im not saying this of communism, which is a beautiful theory and has not been tested under ideal situations, not that I think this is ever possible, but far be it from me to stink over this wonderful idea, just the mutated ugly mess it begot.

I also could tell that tales of those times are not easy to tell. I had to go to museums and memorials to get anything, so the first stop the next morning was the Solidarity Museum. The story is simply incredible and lends itself all to easily to sloganeering and bannering. Revolution soon dies, sold out for a pay rise. The original revolution that began the snowball that engulfed Eastern Europe, surely it began in some hearts with all the purity and goodwill such actions require, but I shudder to consider how fast they died and were taken over by power hungry merchants of terror and control. The very name of Stalin evokes horror, let that all I write here. From the peoples revolution grew the evil empire and there in Gdansk, from the people came the first blow to bringing it down. Dock workers striking in 1980 at Lenin Shipyards in Gdansk met cruel reprisal from the government, but after food shortages and further reduction of available goods just before Christmas (especially cruel in such a Catholic nation, where the winter is harsh, coming from an atheist government who surely must know but openly do not care) were the spark that started the strike. Under banners of We Want Bread and We Want Religion, the strikes saw police and brutality but held firm. The museum has footage of people getting run down in the street. The result was the government giving in and allowing the first legal trade union Solidarity and the beginning of the end. It was not easy, but from small acorns grow great things. The museum, on the grounds of the still active shipyards, tell the whole story and is a wonder. The path on the way in is lined with artefacts from the era, including a part of the Berlin Wall, and several monuments, including ones to those who died in the fight. It all tells a spectacular and important story. I was duly moved.

The old town of Gdansk is a reconstruction, since it was crushed during the war. Common story, that. It nonetheless is impressive, full of colour, tourists and museums. The story of the city had intrigued me from the start. I had seen it was the free city of Danzig after the first war, virtually autonomous, before which is had been at the centre of Prussia and therefore had a strong German heritage. It had been built by trade and amber and had been a Teutonic stronghold for a long time before that. All it took were a few days of fighting to send all this into permanent history, the buildings that saw it all happen reduced to rubble. It was yet another cold reality check about just how much was lost during the second World War. But we must not despair too much, because if only one thing came from that great tragedy, it is the spirit of reconstruction and preservation that has galvanised the continent (and fed the tourist industry). Most of this story I had the details filled in at the local history museum, inside the old town hall. The rooms themselves survived without total devastation, so the building as well as the exhibits is worth a look. Then there are the numerous churches, the tallest of which I climbed 450 stairs to get a load of the view. The top was swarming with small flying insects. Great.

After taking it all ain and yet another kebab for lunch, I took a tram down to the beach. The Baltic sea had been very good to me, and this would be our last meeting for the time being. I walked it up and down, went for a swim. I thought about the people I had met and played with in its waters, about the times we had all had on its shores and in the countries it washed up on. Good times, but not in that ever growing pile of memories called the past. I said goodbye to the sea, goodbye to my friends, goodbye to my memories. I thanked the sea for being part of it all and it gave me some amber to carry with me. Pink Floyd came on my earphones. Wish You Were Here, oh how I wish you were here.

I found my way back to Krystynas and went to bed.

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